After a blissful few days off grid on Tahiti Iti, it was time to return back to the mainland. We crept our way up the southwest side of the island, finishing up the last leg of our Tahiti road trip.
Plage Vaiava PK 18
Water Gardens Vaipahi
The first stop is actually a stop I didn’t make at all! While getting the GPS links for this video, I found this awesome water garden. Looking at the luscious greenery and serene ponds on Trip Advisor, I have major FOMO. Sometimes last-minute planning means you miss cool spots, make sure you don’t miss it either!
Motu Puuru de Mataiea and Motu Mapeti
The next stop is one that you can see several miles along this stretch of coastline. There are two tiny, tree-lined islets just off shore that make for a stunning view as you sunbathe on the beach of the mainland. Known as motus, Motu Puuru de Mataiea and Motu Mapeti are small enclaves for broken coral and sand to create a small land masses.
Cocoteraie de Atimaono
A few miles up the coast lies a truly dreamy coconut farm in Paparā, with neatly manicured rows of coconut palms. The entrance to Cocoteraie de Aminaono is a small and easy to miss drive way off the main road. The space is so spectacular. The palms sway gently in the salty ocean breeze—their shadows dancing across the impeccable lawn.
A small river flanks the property, where cool water from Tahiti’s Jurassic mountainous interior meanders towards the sea.
There’s a stretch of sandy coastline, making this beach a great option if you’re in the heat of the day and trying to avoid the boiling hot black sand beaches near all over Tahiti.
It’s also really popular with local windsurfers. The area gets pretty windy given the small peninsula’s stretch out into the sea. It was fun to watch them catch some impressive winds, gliding through the choppy water with ease. Although, that meant I did have to keep the drone pretty tight during these shots, as I doubted it would be as graceful in the water as those windsurfers.
We stopped for some lunch at HoaNui. Known for its fresh seafood and delightful tuna, this spot has delicious options, served in gigantic portions. Along with open-air seating throughout, it has an adorable gazebo overlooking the ocean, with the motus and Tahiti Iti off in the distance.
Taharuu Beach
A stop at Taharuu Beach is a nice break from the road. You’ll catch a lot of locals grilling, playing basketball, and surfing here. Of course, I had to get in some street pole on the little outdoor gym.
The river flanking the park is quite large. It brings cool, fresh water from the mountains, making for a refreshing dip. When we went, there were a pair of adorable pups who thought so as well.
Typical of a lot of Tahitian beaches, this stretch of coastline has black, rocky sand. It’s mixed with particles of coral and volcanic sediment that accumulate thanks to the nice break in the lagoon. The river eats into the reef and allowing the Pacific’s violent surf, attracting tons of surfers.
Grottes de Mara’a
As the road starts to reorient north, there’s a unique stop at a park featuring stunning caves and lush vegetation. There are no entrance or parking fees. Local vendors set up a little shop selling jewelry, woodworking pieces, and other souvenirs. There’s actually three grottos along a , only about .39 miles of level concrete trail.
Vai-pātōtō is the smallest grotto and features dense floating water lilies and vines framing the serene natural scene.
Ana-Mata-vaa, the middle sized grotto, also features some impressive foliage, falling gently from the tree branches above.
Ana-Vai-poiri is the largest cave, at about 260 feet deep and 100 feet wide. Inside, mineral rich, blue-grey water makes for a refreshing swim after a long day in the sun—or scaling mountains.
Vaipahi Trail
Yup, you read that right. There’s actually a crazy hike up into the peaks piercing the tropical skies. The Vaipahi Trail is unmarked, tucked away in the jungle with only a single, sad rope to flag its existence. There is definitely some significant elevation gain as you rise out of the dense jungle. Still, if you dare try this pretty intense hike, you will be rewarded with outstanding views of the lagoon below. A swing dangles over the cliff’s edge, but is simply too cool not to try.
While there is actually a loop that you can do, we went back the way we came, sliding my happy butt all the way down until I was able to jump into the cool waters of the grotto below. Just watch out for the fire ants!
If you wanted some more adventure after sliding down a mountainside, there is actually a jet-ski rental across the street. While we kept missing its opening hours, it would definitely make this stop even better to combine the grottos with the hike, and then top it off with a jet ski session.
After you’ve worked up an appetite, stop family-owned Te Manu Kura for a bite. The vibe is super romantic in the adorable patio, and they have some great drink specials!
Marae Ta’ata
Maraes are essentially open-air temples crucial to indigenous Polynesian religious practices. There are a number still in decent condition across Tahiti, but this one found near PK 19 definitely has some of the largest above ground structures still visible to visitors today. It features not one, but three structures meant for religious ceremonies.
We stopped by at golden hour, enjoying the setting sun in the distance as we walked the ancient grounds.
Mahana Park
Mahana Park boasts plenty of parking and beach access. It features neatly manicured landscaping and is quite popular with locals. While the beach is a bit rockier compared to PK 18, many say the water is clearer, making for better snorkeling.
Plage Vaiava PK 18
PK 18 is a white sand beach set in the shallow lagoon. The soft sand makes it easy to stroll along the beach for quite a long distance, taking in the views of Morea across the sea. These vistas make for some excellent thirst traps, honey.
Just look at thoise ominous clouds lingering around the mountain peaks of Morea. The shallow, clear water is excellent for snorkeling. Vibrant fish species swim in massive schools around colorful coral just feet from the sand. For several afternoons in a row, the most entertaining dog accompanied a group of local kids, stalking fish around the coral for hours while his humans bodyboarded in the gentle waves.
I would definitely recommend staying in this area, as there are tons of adorable Air BnBs all along the shoreline. We stayed here for several nights and thoroughly enjoyed the beachfront access of our Air BnB. Hours went by as we snorkeled and strolled the lagoon, stopping to check out coral and watch the sunset. Later, we snuck out in the dead of night to catch impressive views of the Milky Way, listening to the Storm Petrels wail like velociraptors as they came flying in to feed the hungry chicks in their nests.
Even if you just have a few hours, this beach is still definitely worth the stop. The day use area is currently going through a major overhaul, but there is still plenty of free parking, showers to rinse off, and bathrooms.
After PK 18, we headed back to the airport for our flight back to Los Angeles. Word to the wize, rent a car in Tahiti. The road trip around the island is so much fun, and offers tons of free activities that really make it a magical experience. I have one more episode in this Tahiti series, focusing on tips and advice for traveling to Tahiti. So, make sure you tune in to get all the deets on traveling to this unforgettable island.
Thanks so much for reading, byeeeee!
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