Venice without Tourists
Scrolling through my phone this morning, I saw an article by the Associated Press announcing that the Italian government solidified a much-anticipated ban on cruise ships in the lagoon adjacent to Saint Mark’s Square, Saint Mark’s Canal and the Giudecca Canal. Cruise ships will now have to dock in the industrial port further out near a Venice suburb. The decision was praised by UNESCO, which had been debating listing Venice as an “imperiled world heritage site,” according to the article. Venice mass tourism concerns had been rightfully growing in recent years. In the midst of the pandemic, many saw ecological improvements that determined many to fight for limits on overtourism in Venice.
The article had me reminiscing about my own recent visit to Venice. It was September of 2020, in the height of the pandemic. I was able to get into Austria thanks to rules providing access based on long-term relationships with Austrian citizens. The summer of 2020 saw much of Europe open—to other Europeans. Thus, one of the road trips my partner and I did that summer was to Venice, Italy. After having had to cancel my solo trip the year before because of the massive floods that devastated the city, I was thrilled to not only get to see Venice, but also in a much different light than most tourists typically do. Best yet, we were there for my birthday. After so much uncertainty during the first six months of the pandemic, it was an incredible blessing to spend my birthday in Venice.
Now, the city was not completely empty. There were still many tourists walking around Piazza San Marco and by the Rialto Bridge, but only a fraction of what the city normally sees at the end of the summer season. Gone were the cruise ships and compact masses of guided tours linked together by identical hats and the stuffed animals impaled by metal poles, waving high in the air as the foreign guide herded the group like a sheep dog would his flock. To my surprise, most of the tourists there were speaking Italian! It was truly dreamy to wander down the intricate canals and shortcuts listening to the echo of Italian. I felt transported to a time before mass tourism began pushing out Venetian residents as corporate Air BnB’s crept in, before the canals were clogged with the oil and soot of massive cruise ships—when Venice still belonged to the Venetians.
What is Responsible Tourism?
Reminiscing had me wonder what could win the battle between mass tourism vs alternative tourism—dare I say it—responsible tourism? So, what is responsible tourism? According to Responsible Tourism Partnership, responsible tourism is travel that “minimizes negative economic, environmental, and social impacts” and “generates greater economic benefits for local people and enhances the well-being of the host communities, improves working conditions and access to the industry.” It embodies travel that is more culturally sensitive and focused on the conservation of natural environments and cultural traditions in a positive way. Cruise ships be damned, yes, but there are so many more ways we can reduce our impact while traveling to avoid the onset of mass tourism back into areas that desperately need a break.
In all honesty, I am guilty of some of the sins of mass tourism myself. I travel often—and far. Although I feel that I have always tried to stick to more locally inspired, alternative itineraries, I felt as if I could be doing more. So, I went on the offensive, researching extra steps to change my behavior and embrace a more responsible type of travel moving forward as I begin to plan my own future adventures. After all, the world is beginning to open up. As Americans are once again able to enter Italy and travel to iconic spots like Venice, I feel that it is important for all of us to change our behaviors and avoid those past sins—paving the way for a more sustainable wanderlust.
How to Travel the World More Responsibly
1. Don't Fly
Let’s be real for a second—flights are a major contributing to carbon dioxide emissions. The airline industry only contributes about 2.5% of CO² emissions—but what it does contribute is in a vulnerable, high atmospheric space. That means that its emissions can be more damaging in terms of their impact on climate change. So, when possible, why not take another mode of transportation? Instead of taking short haul flights, consider choosing alternative methods of travel, like train or bus options. Many of the top companies in the U.S. and Europe that offer such travel options have been making major improvements to their carbon footprint, making them an even better option. I would recommend companies like Train Line and Flix Bus for train and bus travel. You can also compare options using sites like Omio and Rome2Rio. Check out my Cheap Flights and Ground Travel for more information!
2. Direct Flights
When you have no other option to fly, try being more conscious about the type of flight you are booking. It is not only about choosing companies that have made sustainable improvements, but also the number of legs built into your trip. An article featured in the Environment Journal highlights a 2019 study conducted by the University of Texas at San Antonio claiming that there were less carbon dioxide emissions associated with direct versus connecting flights. In fact, that difference was as high as 100kg of CO² per person. That is apparently the same as running a major appliance, like a refrigerator, for a year!
3. Secondary City Locations and Staying Off the Beaten Path
Yes, we all want to see—and photograph—the most iconic spots that are all over Instagram right now. But it is important to also build itineraries that reach out to secondary cities and more off-the-beaten path locations to help spread our tourism dollars further into the fabric of the local economy. I personally love hitting up spots and cities that are not well traveled and attractions that are off the beaten path. One of my favorite lesser-known spots that has far fewer crowds to contend with is the Bibloteca Marciana in the Arsenale. yes, it’s in Piazza San Marco, but people tend to flock to other attractions and leave this one out. If you purchase a ticket to St. Mark’s Basilica, it includes admission to the library that can be used as late as the next day. It’s great for all my fellow literary lovers and also anyone who wants a nice way to beat the sweltering heat of the afternoon in peace.
Also, there are lesser-known quarters like the Jewish Quarter that offer interesting history with a different perspective of Venice. There are several memorials for the Jews that were expelled from Venice during the Holocaust. The neighborhood is cozy and often emptier than its more popular neighbors, with great food options for some more diversity. It also is important not to forget that Venice is not just one island. No, actually 120 islands make up the municipality of Venice. One way to take a more responsible approach to Venice travel is to visit other islands, like Murano, San Michele, or San Lazzaro.
4. Slow Travel
As an American, I understand the need to try to fit in thirty different locations on our short two-week work holiday. However, this type of travel is not sustainable for the body or the environment. Slow travel is an approach to tourism that connects more to the spaces, introducing you as the outsider to the intimate nature of life where you are traveling. It is a great way to get to know the landscape and the locals. Even if you can’t knock off all the things on your bucket list, it is sometimes better to travel less, but live more.
5. Travel in the Off Season
It is no secret that traveling in the off seasons is a major bonus if you can swing it. Doing so helps provide more robust and sustainable economic support to the communities visited. It puts less of a strain on local ecosystems by spreading out tourism’s impact, so you don’t feel like you are part of the mass tourism plague that rides into a city in the heat of the summer, consumes all its resources, and flies off with the first hint of the autumn chill. Not to mention, traveling to the most famous locations during the off season can save you hundreds of dollars on accommodations and attractions.
6. Carbon Offsets
Carbon offsetting is something that I admit I have not dabbled much in the past. But this is the one thing I feel that I want to practice more with my travels coming up this year and beyond. What is carbon offsetting? Programs offer a chance for us to pay for the carbon emissions we are responsible for while traveling by helping a third party who is engaged in actively removing carbon dioxide from the atmosphere, such as planting trees or investing in green energy projects. Today, there are many programs that offer travelers a chance to purchase carbon offsets based on the estimated carbon emission of their flights, train rides, and other travel activities. Luckily, more airlines are catching on to the idea and offering carbon offsetting opportunities as travelers purchase their tickets. As a dedicated Star Alliance groupie, I was happy to see United Airline’s Eco-Skies program, as well as Lufthansa and Austrian Airlines work with Compensaid. If your airline does not offer a carbon offsetting program, don’t fret. There are plenty of reliable organizations that can help you calculate the carbon impact of your next trip so that you can repent in the form of carbon offsets. Some of the most reliable I found in my research here in the United States include Terra Pass and Carbon Fund, which you will see in a second has worked also with tours like Viator as well.
7. Tour with Locals
Staying local with your purchases includes attractions and activities as well. Making sure to hire local guides or to take tours run by locals only ensures that you are positively impacting the local economy of your favorite destinations. In Venice, we took a Viator tour of St. Mark’s Basilica and the Doge’s Palace. It was a small tour that made it feel quite intimate and our guide was a local Venetian who not only knew the history but also had a ton of facts about living in modern-day Venice. Viator is a major tour company that works internationally, yes, but it is known for taking key social responsibility promises. Not only does Viator typically hire local guides, thus pumping money into the local economy, but it has also been known for years to be committed to reducing its carbon footprint. According to a CS Wire article a far back as 2007 the company partnered with Carbonfund.org, which I mentioned earlier in this post. Another great option is actually good for your wallet, too. Air BnB Experiences is another option. Again, Air BnB is a major corporate player in the tourism sector, but with a bit of searching through experiences, you can find true locals who can greatly benefit from your trip in their city. I always love taking dance classes, graffiti tours, and cooking classes directly with locals in their homes and neighborhoods. Strawberry Tours is a free tour program that links up tourists with local tour guides. They offer interesting tours in cities throughout the globe—just make sure you don’t forget the tip!
8. Respect the Locals
This may seem obvious, but it is unfortunately often overlooked. Respecting the people that live in the city you are visiting is key! You have to treat people like your neighbors, whether they live next door or halfway across the world from you. This means exhibiting common courtesy and asking permission for pictures of their person and property! Would you run up to your neighbor and snap a picture of him in undies and a bath robe getting the Sunday paper? No, so don’t behave like that outside of your neighborhood either.
Additionally, respecting the locals means paying them! It is important to buy locally made products and one-of-a-kind items and Mom and Pop shops. Small businesses are the heart of any community and making sure to frequent locally owned shops ensures that you are helping encourage the culture and local traditions much more than going to some ridiculous tourist trap gift store. Venice is full of interesting little shops, tucked away in some winding back alley! Go explore! My favorite, of course, are bookstores and craft shops. Liberia Acqua Alta is one of the quirkiest bookstores I’ve seen. Its books are all stacked in massive bathtubs, a habit picked up after several floods wrecked the place, but now gives it the unique charm that is unparalleled anywhere else. The place even has its own resident cats that sleep atop shelves bursting with books. True to form, I bought several books, one of them being Casanova’s My Escape from Venice’s Prison. La Carta was another shop I would highly recommend to any writer, but also tourists looking for unique gifts. It’s stocked full of handmade sketchbooks, bound with love and beautiful collage covers highlighting some of Venice’s top attractions. The store also specializes in fountain pens made with glass blown on the nearby island of Murano.
Finally, there are always secondhand clothing and jewelry stores! Anyone who has traveled with me knows that my favorite souvenir is one that I can wear, so I’m obsessed with finding unique pieces from secondhand thrift shops and jewelry stores. In Venice, I would recommend Barbieri Arabesque for interesting clothing pieces! And just to note in general, some of my favorite secondhand stores include Kilo with locations in Paris and throughout France, as well as HUMANA in Austria.
9. Locally Owned and Operated Accommodations
I know I am always on the hunt for the best accommodations. Balancing price with location is tricky as is. Yet, lately, I have found it important to me to also add in another layer—business type and owner. I prefer booking accommodations owned by individuals, especially those operated by women and BIPOC owners. Now, this may mean having to throw in a few extra dollars, but the positive impact on local homeowners and hotels is critical. This is especially true in Venice, where corporations and rich commercial landowners have been pushing out locals with a few vacation rentals under their belt. When I was looking through Air BnB, I focused on the reviews to really nail down a property owner I felt represented a small business owner who lived in the area. Our Air BnB in Venice was hosted by Luna, a bad ass female entrepreneur and local Venetian resident who definitely is worth a look in your accommodation search!
10. Ditch the Single Use Plastic
Single use plastic is out! It’s time we all invest in reusable cutlery, travel-friendly water bottles, and other alternatives to those damned plastic straws. I typically carry a metal collapsible straw, and a collapsible travel water bottle. Solid shampoos are another great option for reducing your use of those small travel sizes. I have had great luck with Lush’ shampoo bars, although I am still on the hunt for a good solid conditioner. If anyone has any favorites, please leave them in the comments!
11. Research for Exploitative Attractions
Last, but definitely not least, there is the need to avoid contributing to problematic tourist attractions and practices. We as travelers need to build up our research game when it comes to looking for what to do once we get to our destinations. That means taking the extra effort to look for companies that offer greater environmental and social responsibility, and avoiding places that exploit tourists, locals, and the environment. It is important not only to look at reviews, but also to search for the company’s name and reputation on third party sites as well. A little bit of research can help ensure you pick a tour company that is protecting the ecosystem it interacts with or a true animal sanctuary that does not abuse the animals.
Overtourism Lessons for a Better Future
Word to the wize, we can’t go back to our old tourism sins. Places like Venice simply can’t take the pressure. It is up to all of us to research and demand more socially and environmentally responsible travel practices from the places and companies we frequent. Me personally? I know I can do better too. I am not speaking from the pulpit over here. Most of the points I present here are things I am trying to implement on a more sustainable basis. I definitely want to incorporate carbon offsetting as I search for my next trip…
Speaking of which, I got a lot of plans coming up this summer that I hope will bring you guys some great content and advice for navigating the new tourism as we begin to get off the couches and back to our wanderlust.
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