While Tahiti is known worldwide, its sister island Tahiti Iti, is much more rugged and mysterious. Literally meaning “little Tahiti,” Tahiti Iti is a dormant volcano, linked to the larger Tahiti Nui by a small isthmus, on which sits the town of Taravao. The area features pristine beaches lining the mountainous interior, and honestly—it was one of my favorite stops on this whole trip.
Belvedere Lookout
You really get a feel for the grandeur of the landscape on a visit to Belvedere Look Out on the Taravao Plateau. From Taravao, it is a lovely scenic drive into the rolling hills, slowly climbing elevation through cattle pastures and adorable little farms. The 9 km road up to the viewpoint is quite small, but well maintained, giving you outstanding views of a countryside not often seen by tourists visiting Tahiti on overcrowded cruise ships or carefully curated travel itineraries.
After meandering up the mountainside, you find yourself on the top an impressive plateau with an epic view of the landscape. We stopped for a lunch under the shade of the small gazebo, watching grazing horses roam the hillside and listening to birds singing gently in the sunshine.
There are also several hikes around the summit of the plateau. The Arboretum du Plateau Taravao is carved out of the mountainside and offers visitors a glimpse at the diverse flora and fauna of the region. We spent the afternoon exploring, droning the epic views—and looking for our Air BnB for the night. Yes, that means there was internet connection!
Taravao
Once we had our super last-minute accommodations squared away, we headed back down the mountain into Taravao. Before heading further into the interior of Tahiti Iti, I would definitely recommend you stop for supplies and a bite to eat in the town of Taravao. There are few options towards Teahupo’o, so stock up at U Express beforehand! Definitely stop at Le Motu de Mymy, an adorable food truck with a covered patio serving massive portions of fresh tuna and steak.
La Plage de Maui
Getting out of Taravao, the road winds back towards the sea. The drive is incredible, just inches from some of the most serene beaches on the island. Make sure to stop at La Plage de Maui, a beach with soft, white sand and crystal-clear water. Named after the Polynesian demigod Maui, the best way to navigate to it is by using the coordinates of the restaurant on its coastline. It is right off the road, so parking is easy. Nearby market, Magasin Notehei, offers cool drinks and snacks for beach goers. There are even small showers to rinse off before heading back to your next adventure on this epic road trip. We waded in the water, chasing schools of small fish—but be careful, they bite! Seriously, even with water shoes, I had several fish take little nibbles on my legs. While it didn’t hurt, it definitely freaked me out.
Best Air BnB - Pension Chayan
Our next stop was to our Air BnB in Teahupo’o, at the end of the road that traverses Tahiti Iti’s southern coast. Pension Chayan, our quaint little home for the next few nights, was a gem for only around $165 a night. Tucked away into the jungle, the property had its own waterfalls and small streams, populated by large fresh water eels.
Our quiet bungalow sat at the back of the property, with views of the waterfall just feet away from our kitchen window. At night, the soft sound of the water rushing over rock lulled us to sleep.
We kept the windows open all night, but luckily we had a few lizard friends help keep the bugs at bay. I have to admit, I have never slept so soundly with the sound of the waterfall in the distance. The dark sky glittered, illuminated by a thousand stars.
Pension Chayan also has its own private stretch of coastline. It is just a short walk across the road to the charming dock exclusive to the property. We sat and watched the fish off the end of the dock for hours until the sun set, until I saw a shark! Blacktip reef sharks are native to French Polynesia and often lurk in the shallow waters of the lagoons surrounding the island. While they are cool to look at from afar, I was not interested in checking them out any closer than from the safety of the dock.
Kayaking the Lagoon
Later in our stay, we took out snorkeling gear and kayaks that were available through the rental. See, in Tahiti, many Air BnBs offer kayaks or other gear so you can head out into the lagoons—there’s really no need to pay separately for a snorkeling or kayaking tour. We kayaked around the lagoon for hours, enjoying the calm waters rich with marine life. We even found a sandy, shallow spot far from the coast to jump into the water and relax on the lagoon’s edge.
Coral reefs protect much of the coast of Tahiti Iti, protecting it from the ocean’s violent surf. These lagoons are filled with an incredible diversity of wildlife, including beautiful corals and schools of fish. This lagoon is known as a rahui zone, or a protected area, which is meant to allow nature to rest and recover. The rahui zone around Teahupo’o was established in 2014 and includes about 750 hectares of reef area.
Within this lagoon sits a pearl farm, where they harvest some of Tahiti’s finest natural pearls. While we did not have the time, the Tahiti Pearl Farm offers exciting excursions, where you can dive for your own pearls! They will even come pick you up from your accommodations. For those who book a little more ahead than our last-minute planning, check out their website and Facebook page here.
Teahupo'o - The End of the World
Our last stop was what locals fondly call the end of the world—the famous beaches of Teahupo’o. Here is PK 0, the very lowest of Tahiti’s numbered beaches—where the road ends. It is about 18 km from Taravao down a windy road that flanks the ocean. It is accessible by public transport, Tere Tahiti, as we saw signs for Ligne 23B and 30. Still, it is far more advisable to drive. The road is well kept but dimly lit at night. The beach has a small parking lot with an attendant and is extremely popular with locals. It definitely has a more chill, rugged vibe than the overcrowded tourist beaches just outside of Papeete.
The Tirahi River dumps out into the ocean, bringing fresh water from the Jurassic mountains of Tahiti’s interior. Over the centuries, the river has slowly eroded the coral reefs that encircle the area, creating a break in the lagoon that ushers in the Pacific’s violent waves. In fact, this beach is one of the most famous surf spots in the world, known for its barrel wave than can reach up to 12 feet! The best time to surf is May to August, and Tahiti sponsors the Tahiti Pro every summer—bringing some of the top names in surfing to the region for an impressive contest.
This region is so remote that there are some villages without road access at all. Just after the bridge, there are adorable accommodations such as Bungalows Havae Teahupoo and Teahupoo Lodge that are not accessible by car. You have to walk in or take one of the water taxis, making this truly one of the most magical off-grid spots to stay on Tahiti. While I could not find a link to the boat tai, I’ll include what I saw on their boats: Teahupo’o Taxi Coco +87 770 649.
Unfortunately, we only had a few days here in Teahupo’o, although I would have stayed a lifetime. Internet was extremely limited, and I had some work to do, so it was off to a new location—and a new adventure. Make sure to check back for the next episode, where we head up Tahiti’s southern coast!
Thanks for reading!
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