There are so many things to do in Krabi beyond its beautiful island beaches! Come with me on this Krabi mangrove kayak trip in Ao Luek. We have lunch, scuttle along through the mangroves and get to explore caves with prehistoric petroglyphs!
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Krabi Kayaking Trip
To get a little off the typical tourist path, my friend Tian and I booked a Ban Bor Thor kayaking adventure for our last tour in the area before crossing over to the Gulf of Thailand. We actually found the specific tour through Krabi Tourism, check out the Sea Kayak Bor Thor option that is available online for 1,700 THB per person ($47.17). However, I would honestly recommend contacting Maan’s Kayaking directly if possible. Maan is an excellent guide, having lived and loved the estuary system his entire life. You can find his Facebook page with here.
Maan picked us up from our hotel in Ao Nang and we had a pleasant drive into the countryside. Ao Luek is at the very northern end of Krabi, which has access to Phang Nga Bay.It is about 45 minutes from Ao Nang on Highway 4, which is the main thoroughfare between Krabi and Phuket. There are some great views of the limestone crags in the distance down this entire stretch of road that make the drive entertaining in and of itself.
Due to ongoing COVID-19 regulations, February was very slow for the end of the high season. Thus, we had Maan to ourselves, being the only group in the tour that day! It was a fantastic way to get to see the area, as we picked Maan’s brain for tons of information on the ecology and prehistoric history of the area, as well as how COVID-19 has impacted the villages in the region.
The docking area where you take off and stop in for lunch is quite rustic, but the locals are super sweet. The tour includes lunch at Bo Tho Seafood, which we were pleasantly surprised with. The restaurant is small and auspicious, but with an amazing kitchen. There is a massive four course set up for the group, even when it was just us two. We even saw a white-bellied sea eagle sipping on a cold Chang beer.
Mangrove Tour
The tour itself goes through Than Bok Khorani National Park, a nature reserve area that is known for its dense mangrove forests and prehistoric cave paintings. It circles around a large estuary, so get ready for a workout! The water is flat and the current relatively slow, but you are still kayaking for about 6.5 km in 4 or so hours, which is tiring on the arms. I was more than happy to play river boat captain, taking the back of the kayak and muscling against the current of the river.
Paddling deep into the mangrove forest, you are transported to another world. Thailand actually has 74 species of mangrove trees and the forests that play a critical part in the larger ecosystem. They help filter sediment from the water and buffer the area from the rough sea waves. The densely packed mangrove forest also provides shelter and food for countless species including birds, fish, crabs, and even crab-eating macaques, which thank God we did not see on our trip. I hate macaques!
However, ya girl is not the best river boat captain, unfortunately. Mark Twain was definitely rolling over in his grave. I admit, it was a subpar driving performance at best through those entangled mangrove roots and limestone rocks that pop out of nowhere like we’re on the damn Titanic.
Caves and Petroglyphs
There are countless caves within the Ao Luek mangrove reserve, including Tham Lod Tai and Tham Lod Nua, which we got to coast through as we meandered through the intricate highway system of streams, caves, and root masses. Many of the caves are essentially narrow tunnels carved out of the massive limestone crag by the auspicious sea water. There are tons of impressive stalactite and stalagmite formations.
Please make sure to respect the very delicate geology of the caves and the sensitivity of the complex ecosystem in the mangroves. Although the prehistoric peoples of this region left their mark, we don’t have to one up them by adding ours. Maan even advised us not to even touch the water dripping down from the upper stalactites, as the oils from our hands could affect the way the stalagmites growing from the cave floor.
The star cave we visited was Tham Ohi Hua To (Tham Pee Hua Toe), which literally translates to Big-headed Ghost Cave. There is a 300 baht entry fee ($8.32), but sometimes the station is empty and you get lucky, just bring cash in case. The cave served as a prehistoric burial site and features a total of 238 prehistoric paintings of humans, hands, and animals from the surrounding ecosystem, several of which are viewable in the boardwalk section of the cave. Many are painted in colorful red and yellow paint, which has faded over the years. So, it helps to have a guide like Maan who knows exactly where all the good money shots are.
Scenic Lagoon
Afterwards, we jumped back in our kayaks and headed to a small lagoon tucked away in a seemingly unremarkable corner of the estuary. This was honestly the highlight of the trip for me. You pass through a small sea cave into a glimpse of a prehistoric world. The lagoon is encased by seemingly ancient palms with massive fronds that spread out like elongated fingers blowing gracefully in the soft breeze. I imagine this was what the jungle paradise of the dinosaurs looked like. I was waiting for a T Rex to come rumbling through the foliage. But alas, we survived. As we headed back to the little riverside village, it was relaxing to coast down with the current and just shoot the shit with Maan.
Word to the wize, get off the beach once and a while and check out Krabi’s stunning mangroves!
Make sure to subscribe for more in this Thai island hopping series and check out my YouTube video of this crazy Krabi mangrove kayak trip! Thanks for reading!
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